📅 April 2026⏱ 9 min read🔬 Science-backed🇮🇳 Indian skin focus
Besan — chickpea flour — is one of the oldest Indian skincare ingredients, central to the traditional ubtan used for centuries for cleansing, exfoliating, and brightening. Unlike many traditional remedies, besan has documented skin benefits rooted in its chemical composition.
Used correctly, it is an effective gentle exfoliator and mild cleanser. Misused — particularly when mixed with lemon juice — it causes hyperpigmentation that can take months to fade.
The Science Behind Besan
Saponins — naturally occurring surfactants in chickpeas that lift dirt and oil from skin without synthetic harshness
Proteases (enzymes) — break down dead protein on skin surface providing mild enzymatic exfoliation
Zinc — chickpeas are a dietary source of zinc, which has anti-inflammatory and oil-regulating properties when applied topically
Besan is mildly alkaline (pH ~7-7.5), slightly higher than skin's natural pH (4.5-5.5). This is why it should always be mixed with slightly acidic liquids like milk or curd — which bring the paste's pH closer to skin-safe levels and prevent barrier disruption.
💡 How It Compares to Chemical Exfoliants
Besan provides gentle mechanical + mild enzymatic exfoliation — good for general maintenance. Chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid or glycolic acid penetrate deeper and treat specific concerns more effectively. Besan is not a substitute for actives but is an excellent gentle weekly complement.
How to Use Besan — Step by Step
Never use dry — always mix to a paste. Dry granules create micro-scratches.
Choose the right liquid — raw milk or curd for dry skin; aloe vera gel or plain water for oily skin.
Apply with light strokes — do not scrub. The friction during removal provides the exfoliation.
Leave 15-20 minutes — besan can dry without the same dehydration risk as clay masks.
Remove with circular motions — moisten first, then use gentle circles. This is the mild physical exfoliation step.
Frequency — 1-2 times per week maximum.
Besan for Every Skin Type
Oily & Acne-Prone
Good. Mix with aloe vera gel or water. Controls mild oiliness and removes dead cells that clog pores. Avoid on active inflamed breakouts.
Dry Skin
Mix with raw milk or cream. Classic remedy for dry dull skin — milk adds moisture while besan exfoliates gently.
Combination Skin
Excellent. Gentle enough for dry cheeks when mixed with milk, effective on oily T-zone.
Sensitive Skin
Mix with raw milk only, never water. Patch test first. Very gentle pressure during removal.
Recipes — Face Masks and Treatments
Classic Ubtan
Best for: All skin types — brightening
2 tablespoons besan + enough raw milk to make a paste
Add tiny pinch of cosmetic-grade turmeric
Add 1 teaspoon curd for extra brightening
Apply to face and neck, leave 20 minutes
Rinse with lukewarm water using gentle circles
Classic Indian pre-event treatment for instant glow
This is the most dangerous besan combination. Lemon juice causes phototoxic reactions (phytophotodermatitis) when skin is exposed to sunlight — resulting in severe dark patches that can be permanent. Replace lemon with a few drops of curd, or skip acidic additions entirely. No combination of besan + lemon is safe for regular facial use.
Best Besan Products on Amazon India
Besan is available at any Indian grocery for ₹30-60 per 500g. Any clean unflavoured chickpea flour works. For convenience, organic chickpea flour on Amazon is identical for skincare — Check options on Amazon →
For a ready-formulated besan-based product: Biotique Bio Papaya Exfoliating Face Wash contains natural exfoliating compounds — Check price on Amazon →
Frequently Asked Questions
Besan removes dead skin cells through exfoliation, which reveals temporarily brighter skin. It does not inhibit melanin production. For actual hyperpigmentation treatment, Vitamin C + niacinamide serums are required.
No. Daily exfoliation damages the skin barrier. 1-2 times per week is correct. More frequent use makes skin more reactive over time.
Usually means you scrubbed too hard during removal, or skin reacted to the alkalinity. Try: mixing with curd instead of water, using less pressure during removal, reducing frequency.
Yes — a thin paste of besan and water used as a gentle daily cleanser is an ancient Indian practice. However, for oily or acne-prone skin, a salicylic acid face wash is more effective for clearing pores.